TAF Won't enter Test Mode or Coin Up

[lutesaware]

Right now I don't plan to go back until I can put together a plan to diagnose the problems.  Next week at the earliest.

[WannaTheater]

Ragarding the comment about being connected at the MPU underneath the specified connectors, if I recall correctly, they are identical pinouts (i.e. can plug into top OR bottom).  I can check schematic when I get home tomorrow, but you should be ok on that.  For the (-) switch, did you verify the wires did not break off the switch tabs?

You mention no light to the start button- does the button work (i.e. start a game?)

[lutesaware]

I verified that all the buttons had connected wires.  It will not start a game or even add credits through the coin mechs.  I only got into the Utilities menu to set up FREE PLAY by grounding the black wire off of the connector at J3 on the Coin Door Interface board.

[k7]

this game worked before the batteries were swapped.

can you take that MPU to test in another game? maybe it's not that. but I'd make sure.

[FUNWIZ]

Ok, coin door wiring is all orange/xxx and grounded (black).  Check continuity for the ground wire going to all the switches on the coin door.  Wires pass thru the 14689 coin door interface board.  If your not getting a switch to work after checking to make sure the grounds are all ok, check to make sure the continuity from the switch back to the J205 connector on the CPU board is good.  If you can't get it into test mode to set it for free play, or to credit a game using the coin switches, the start button won't light up.

Or/brown  left coin      pin 1 J205, then goes to U17 pin 5
Or/red      center coin  pin 2 J205, then goes to U17 pin 7
Or/black   right coin     pin 3 J205, then goes to U17 pin 11
Or/green  test credit    pin 6 J205, then goes to U16 pin 9
Or/blue    vol down      pin 7 J205, then goes to U16 pin 11
Or/violet  vol up          pin 8 J205, then goes to U16 pin 7
Or/grey   enter test     pin 9 J205, then goes to U16 pin 5
Black       ground        pin 10 J205, grounded on board
Or/white   enable        pin 12 J205

Put the game into test, run it thru the tests, note the closed switches, see if any are stuck...

Start button (switch test 13) White/Orange pin 3 J208, then goes to U18 pin 5, and Green/Brown pin 1 J206, then goes to U20 pin 18. 

Credit button light (lamp test 88) Red/Gray pin 9 J133, then goes to Q83, and Yellow/Gray pin 9 J138, then goes to Q91.

If your getting the lamp strobes on the games start up, displays cycling and coils firing in the test mode, seems like it's getting power.

Ok, so did I miss anything?

[lutesaware]

Wow, what a thorough check list.  I'm going to try to get back up there next week; if I can't I'll wait until the first of the year.  I'll let you know what happens.  Thanks again for the guidance.

Tom

[busa32927]

i had the same issue with an Indiana Jones.  Battery had leaked.  there was a chip under the battery where the acid had dripped on.  didnt seem bad from looking at it and then later pulled it because i was not getting anything from the buttons on the coin door.  cleaned, re chipped, and re traced.  fixed the problem.

if someone had TAF i bet sending you some pics would be great.

good luck on the fix

[lutesaware]

Remote battery holder, no leakage on board.

[kawikid]

Sounds like broken cold solder joint in the bottom connectors of the cpu or corrosion in the same pins

[lutesaware]

Right now my plan is to check for continuity in the wiring from the coin door to the Coin Door Interface board; and from the Coin Door Interface Door to the CPU.  If the wiring checks out, then I'll pull the CPU and the Coin Door Interface board for one of you wizards to check out for me.

[atarijim]

Take some molex pins with you for the connector to the interface board

[HammysHangout ( Hammy )]

did you test the inputs directly at the cpu board?
Disconnect J205.
Measure DC voltage to Ground Pins 6-9, they should read around 12v. ( they are pulled high via r79,r80,r81,r82,r75,r76,r77,r78 )

if you read 10+ volts, then jumper the pin 11 ( ground ) to each pin ( 6-9  ) and see if it works.

as jim mentioned, sounds like a missing ground to the coin door, most likely a bad molex pin or cold solder join on the interconnect board.

but the above will tell you if the issue is in the head or cabinet.

then move and test at input interface board. ( j1 ) , remove connector, run a jumper from Pin 15 ( switch ground ) to Pins 8-11 ( watch out for pin 2 , as this is lamp power ) - i am suspecting it won't work, as their is a break between the J205-10 and J1-15 on the interface board.

then move and test at the output of the interface board ( j3 ) , switch ground is j3-3 and and the service switches are j3-7,8,9,11

[lutesaware]

Jim, thanks for the reminder - I'll be sure to take some molex pins.

Bill, great details on the testing.  I'll let you know.

It looks like I won't get back up there until after the New Year.