Gottlieb Sys 3 Diode/MOSFET Question & Issue

[ArcadeAction]

This game (SF2 Pin) had two balls jam in the lower left upkicker which bent the upkicker shaft and blew an F21 fuse when others were playing (so I didn't get to see it happen).

After replacing the upkicker solenoid and fuse, the fuse blew again when testing the solenoid in test mode.

On the A3 driver board, I found the Q3 MOSFET tests bad.

Question: Is there an associated diode or other parts I should test/replace relating to this MOSFET? I can tell that the Q3 MOSFET has been replaced in the past. I tested the diodes on the A17 board which is under the playfield and they all seemed to test about .590.

I've been reading this:
http://www.pinrepair.com/sys3/#driver

Thanks for your input

[busa32927]

if you are going to pay the shipping you might as well get the other parts.  a diode test is pretty easy to do if you have a digital multimeter.  you tube it.   i would test the other mosfets too.  order maybe 2 spares.  the parts are cheap.  the shipping kills you.   I would also test the diode on the coil.  it is probably good.  but check while you are there.

usually u will see more solder on a repair than what factory puts on.  some people dont clean up after they solder.  you will see the difference.

best of luck

[k7]

i don't even want to think of working on that 1 color "everything is WHITE!" gottlieb system...lol.

but, if you're ordering parts, diodes are 10 cents. by the time you remove 1 side to actually test a diode, i'd replace any that you are questioning and replace, noting the side's orientation with the bars for the reinstall. good luck.

also, maybe upgrade the VUK solenoid so 2 balls won't pop the electronics. i know you have to upgrade the solenoid in a haunted house.

[ArcadeAction]

if you are going to pay the shipping you might as well get the other parts.  a diode test is pretty easy to do if you have a digital multimeter.  you tube it.   i would test the other mosfets too.  order maybe 2 spares.  the parts are cheap.  the shipping kills you.   I would also test the diode on the coil.  it is probably good.  but check while you are there.

usually u will see more solder on a repair than what factory puts on.  some people dont clean up after they solder.  you will see the difference.

best of luck

-Tested all the MOSFETs on the A3 driver board, just one is bad, the Q3.
-Tested all the diodes in circuit on the A17 diode board, all seemed to have the same reading about .590. But I guess I should desolder a leg from all 30 diodes on the board to test... that sounds like fun... 

[FUNWIZ]

If you have the manual, and want to cheat, there should be one or two drivers not being used that you can steal and put in that place along with the diode resister capacitor whatever else is needed.  This will get you by until you get replacement parts and replace the ones that you took off the board.

[ArcadeAction]

Obtained and put in a replacement MOSFET today on the A3 driver board.
The new upkicker fired once in test mode and blew the F21 fuse again.
The new replacement MOSFET still tests good.

Have a new RD driver board on hand (thanks to KingJelly), but have held off using that yet in the event something else in the game is not right yet and may damage it.

I'll look over the suggestions/comment & research more.

[FUNWIZ]

 Did you replace the coil and maybe wired backwards? Have you checked the diode on the coil?

[ArcadeAction]

Did you replace the coil and maybe wired backwards? Have you checked the diode on the coil?

I replaced the one coil upkicker with a new assembly. I have diodes on order and will plan to potentially change out the diode on the other upkicker as well. I need to check the diode on the new assembly as maybe that has blown also perhaps.

[ArcadeAction]

Update:

I tested the diodes on the new coil I bought for the left upkicker and for the original still working in the right upkicker position and both tested good, but I replaced them anyway.

Again the fuse would blow with this new coil every time after it fired once.

I think I was sent the wrong coil as the number and ohm reading doesn't match the working original. Putting the good one in both spots worked fine, so I just need another original correct coil and hopefully good to go.