I made a mistake re: checking the power at the coil (bridge rectifier, dee dee dee). You should be checking for +50V dc at the coil. Red lead on either of the outside lugs, black to ground.
Sometimes you get a cold solder joint / broken wire at the coil where the bare winding come off the coil and to the lug. In this case, you would need to replace the coil.
To test the coil itself, turn the game on and leave it in attract mode. Then attach an alligator test lead to ground (metal side rail of game), and momentarily touch the other end of the test lead to the middle lead of the flipper coil. The coil should activate.
Also, check the resistance of the coil with a DMM set to ohms with the game turned off. One of the two outside solder lugs for the flipper coil has both a thick and thin coil winding attached to it. This is the "common" lead. Put one lead of the DMM on the outside common flipper lug (the one with the thin and thick coil windings attached to it). Put the other lead of the DMM on the middle lug. A reading of about 4 ohms should be indicated. This is the high powered side of the coil. Put the leads of the DMM on the two outside lugs of the coil. For fliptronics games, a reading of about 125 ohms should be seen.
If approximately these readings are not seen, the flipper coil is bad. Typically the hold side of the coil goes bad more often that the power side.
Also, just verify the EOS switch is operating correctly in the switch test menu.
Report back.
