The Village BBS
Florida Arcade and Pinball Collectors => Florida Arcade and Pinball Collectors => Topic started by: TheBatman on June 28, 2014, 11:39:58 PM
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It's time to replace all the AA batteries in my games, so I went out to WalMart to buy the appropriate tonage of batteries. :-\ I've used Duracell in the past, and had them leak and ruin a keyboard, so I've been using energizers for years...but then I recently just had several things damaged by THOSE, i.e. my precious Rockman headphone amp, and a digital thermometer....expiration date on batteries is 2015 also...so Energizer is now on my shit list. So, there I'm standing in front of the battery kiosk at WalMart for like a half hour... researching on my phone some feedback on the main 3 companies offered at said kiosk: Duracell (most expensive, 16 for $12), Energizer ($1 less, 16 for $11), and then Rayovac ) 36 for $14...yes, that's correct). Seeing as how I needed 32 batteries, I was by habit going to go with Energizer even though they're on my shit list, and price would have been 30 for $20...or I think I could have got 2 huge packs of 24 (48 total) for $28 or something... either way Energizers were going to be $20-28 depending on quantity. Anyway, as I said I decided to do some research on my phone while standing there, and mostly found the consensus was they're all pretty much the same between the big 3 companies, and go with the cheapest, which is Rayovac. Then I also decided, like everything, to use a more critical method and go by NFL team colors. Hence, Duracell copper/black color looked closest to the Saints, Energizer silver/ black looked closest to the Raiders, and Rayovac blue and grey/ white looked closest to the Cowboys, so I obviously went with those! :)
I saw some Youtube putting all 3 in flashlights and seeing which lasted longest, winner was Energizer, then Rayovac, then Duracell. Here's a few links I found helpful, comparing them.
http://dealnews.com/features/Test-Results-That-Will-Change-the-Way-You-Buy-Batteries-Forever/449005.html (http://dealnews.com/features/Test-Results-That-Will-Change-the-Way-You-Buy-Batteries-Forever/449005.html)
http://www.homesteadingtoday.com/specialty-forums/survival-emergency-preparedness/369683-rayovac-versus-other-brands.html (http://www.homesteadingtoday.com/specialty-forums/survival-emergency-preparedness/369683-rayovac-versus-other-brands.html)
If there's no significant difference between the 3, I figured I'd go with the suggestions I saw and go with the cheapest, and hard to beat 36 batteries for $14...so I decided to give Rayovac a try. Comments seem to be all over the place, depending on loyalties to whichever company, or just marketing perhaps also? So anyway, wondering thoughts from everyone else on what you use and why, and if any significant differences in your experience.
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Radioi Shack just changed the label on their batteries so the old label black and green ones are on sale pretty cheap.
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I used to work at Kodak in quality control testing many different battery types. We always found Duracell to be the best long life performer as utilized in cameras, Duracell always won. The battery that I would NEVER use was the Kodak brand because they were notorious for leaking. A lot of folks I worked with didn't use them either. I have had Duracells leak also, so it appears you get leakers no matter what the brand. I stick with Duracells mostly, Eveready and Ray O Vac also ok.
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I bought a TZ in 2012 and when I got it home I figured I should change the batteries. When I took a look, the Duracell batteries in the machine had a use-by date of 2000. They hadn't leaked at all, so since then I have always stuck with Duracell
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non-alkaline batteries :)
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non-alkaline batteries :)
this. brand name doesn't matter. what they use, matters. GO lithium batteries. again, brand doesn't matter.
lithium doesn't leak, unless you do something crazy with them. they last a h3ll of a lot longer, too.
or, change the holders out to cr2032 clips. done for life with battery worries.
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Batteries, Batteries, I don't need no stinkin batteries.
LOL
Jeff
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I buy energizer now, haven't had good luck with Duracell recently. Had a 2015 batch of batteries explode in a game and cause me a lot of grief.
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Yep. I use Sunbeam non alkaline made for low current draw (this is a marketing angle, that's all these batteries were ever good for, remote controls, etc.). They are $1 for a package of 8 at Dollar Tree.
non-alkaline batteries :)
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Batman, I bought some Rayovac (sp?) and they were reaaaaallly bad. I could swear they lasted about 10 shots in my digital camera. The only thing they have been good for were remote controllers and that didn't even last long. I threw them out and went back to Energizer.
Let us know how your battery situation works out. I'm always curious of what the best battery is.
Happy gaming,
Big Al
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this. brand name doesn't matter. what they use, matters. GO lithium batteries. again, brand doesn't matter.
lithium doesn't leak, unless you do something crazy with them. they last a h3ll of a lot longer, too.
or, change the holders out to cr2032 clips. done for life with battery worries.
I agree with this. Lithium and forget it.
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I pulled 12 Rayovac batteries out of the package at random and tested the voltage on my multimeter, every one of them tested 1.63 vdc, so far so good. I think I'm going to try them out and see how it goes. I think it's probably more important to change them out every year or so, rather than leaving them in for like 5 years or something. I was changing them every year (every New Year's Day) but have been lazier the past year, since they tested fine and like 1.53 vdc when I was about to change them last, so I left them in. They use a miniscule amount of energy, some I have in there now have been in for 2 years and still around 1.5 vdc last I checked... but thinking is to change them more often before they leak...or until I can convert all to external battery holders at the least. Or may investigate lithium batteries, never tried those in a AA format, how much do those cost?
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Or may investigate lithium batteries, never tried those in a AA format, how much do those cost?
walgreens runs good sales on energizer lithiums, around $6.50 for a pack of 4 when they go on sale:
(http://pics.drugstore.com/prodimg/206199/220.jpg)
http://www.villagebbs.com/forum/index.php/topic,15891.msg133675.html#msg133675 (http://www.villagebbs.com/forum/index.php/topic,15891.msg133675.html#msg133675)
i changed all my games to lithium in 2012 (after an 8 month old duracell leaked out on me). i'll pull a couple to take a voltage reading tonight.
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lithium is indeed the way to go, put generally, their can't be THAT much of a differernce in the life of them (i have also had bad experiences with batteries {shitting all over clocks and hand consoles}) i usually go with what is cheapest and lithium.
(also rechargeables aren't worth the plastic they are sold in)
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Agreed lithium is the way to go. Pay now or pay later :P
Al
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Or, use anyPin NVRAM for $30-$40 per pinball and you never have to change batteries again. Works great.
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Or, use anyPin NVRAM for $30-$40 per pinball and you never have to change batteries again. Works great.
That's EXACTLY the type of thing I'm looking for my modern pins, as well as getting the ram chips for the older/ 80's games. Any more info on the anypin NVRAM and where to get it? I'll google, but just in case...
Nevermind, found these links very quickly:
http://lockwhenlit.com/ (http://lockwhenlit.com/)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-product-announcement-anypin-nvram-no-more-batteries (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-product-announcement-anypin-nvram-no-more-batteries)
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At other's recommendations, I've been using the Lithium AAA.
Just saw a commercial on Television in the last couple days by Energizer that stated "Guaranteed not to leak." Given the timeliness of that ad to this post, I did a quick search:
http://www.energizer.com/pages/Guarantee-legal.aspx (http://www.energizer.com/pages/Guarantee-legal.aspx)
Here's the verbiage:
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Energizer will repair or replace, at our option, any device damaged by leakage from Energizer MAX AA/AAA Alkaline batteries (with Energizer No Leak Guarantee on Package). If exact replacement is not available, devices may be replaced with a product of comparable market value at the time of claim. Leaking battery and damaged device must be provided to Energizer as proof of claim. Energizer reserves the right to deny claims of damage caused by misuse or modification of the batteries or device. If you have a leaking battery, contact 1-800-383-7323 for return instructions.
Energizer will repair or replace, at our option, any hearing aid damaged by leakage from Energizer Hearing Aid batteries (with Energizer No Leak Guarantee on Package). If exact replacement is not available, devices may be replaced with a product of comparable market value at the time of claim. Leaking battery and damaged device must be provided to Energizer as proof of claim. Energizer reserves the right to deny claims of damage caused by misuse or modification of the batteries or device. If you have a leaking battery, contact 1-800-383-7323 for return instructions.
Energizer will repair or replace, at our option, any device damaged by leakage from Energizer Recharge Power Plus [Energizer Recharge Universal] AA/AAA batteries (with Energizer No Leak Guarantee on Package) for up to one year after full discharge. If exact replacement is not available, devices may be replaced with a product of comparable market value at the time of claim. Leaking battery and damaged device must be provided to Energizer as proof of claim. Energizer reserves the right to deny claims of damage caused by misuse or modification of the batteries or device. If you have a leaking battery, contact 1-800-383-7323 for return instructions.
Energizer Lithium AA/AAA Batteries are GUARANTEED NOT TO LEAK. Due to advanced technology, lithium AA/AAA batteries will not leak under normal consumer usage. If you believe that you have a leaking Energizer lithium battery, contact 1-800-383-7323 for return instructions
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Given that the Lithium batteries are only mentioned in the last paragraph I wonder if the first paragraph applies -- will Energizer replace your MPU of the Lithiums leak at their cost, as they would with the MAX batteries mentioned in the first paragraph?
By the way, when you look at the Lithium batter product page, http://www.energizer.com/batteries/performance-lithium/ultimate-lithium/Pages/aa.aspx, (http://www.energizer.com/batteries/performance-lithium/ultimate-lithium/Pages/aa.aspx,) it states "Leak resistant construction"
So which is is? Are they guaranteed not to leak or are they just leak resistant????
I think someone needs to get clarification from Energizer and Energizer needs to write a better legal document!
These damn corporations and their lack of accountability!!!!
-Brian
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the issue is the base gasses out of the akaline battery and damages the board, if a lithium out gases, the gases are will not interact the same way a akaline battery does
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That guarantee/ warrantee is pretty much bullshit, as they are advertising what the law REQUIRES them to do in the event their product damages a consumers item, all the battery manufacturers advertise that also. They act like they're putting their money where their mouth is, but fact is they have to repair or replace a damaged item regardless. They did pay for repairs to my keyboard years ago, but surely you don't want to go thru the process and red tape and waiting, and not sure how easy it would be to have them repair/ replace a pinball mpu. My preference is to try to avoid it altogether.
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That guarantee/ warrantee is pretty much bullshit, as they are advertising what the law REQUIRES them to do in the event their product damages a consumers item, all the battery manufacturers advertise that also. They act like they're putting their money where their mouth is, but fact is they have to repair or replace a damaged item regardless. They did pay for repairs to my keyboard years ago, but surely you don't want to go thru the process and red tape and waiting, and not sure how easy it would be to have them repair/ replace a pinball mpu. My preference is to try to avoid it altogether.
the guarantee is just like working with ebay, you would have to fight and in the end its just not worth it. a shitty shitty legality.
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Just a reminder for all of the more adventuresome, do not ever pierce and crush a lithium. I have seen first hand what can happen, especially on some of the polymer batteries which are easily pierced.
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Just a reminder for all of the more adventuresome, do not ever pierce and crush a lithium. I have seen first hand what can happen, especially on some of the polymer batteries which are easily pierced.
lithuim-ion/polymer is NOT the same as the lithium iron sulfide AA battery.
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lithuim-ion/polymer is NOT the same as the lithium iron sulfide AA battery.
I understand that iron sulfides are not the re-chargables, however, for those who do not know better, treat them all the same to be safe. As an FYI straight from Energizer with respect to their lithium iron disulfide batteries.....
"The contents of an open battery, including a vented battery, when exposed to water, may result in a fire and/or explosion.
Crushed or damaged batteries may result in a fire. "
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I have hamster wheels in my games, I just drop some food in there and BAM!....the game powers on. No worries about corrosion, although I do clean up little pellets.
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I have hamster wheels in my games, I just drop some food in there and BAM!....the game powers on. No worries about corrosion, although I do clean up little pellets.
How the hell do you fit Hamster in there? ;-)
Let's not even mention the size of his pellets!
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That's EXACTLY the type of thing I'm looking for my modern pins, as well as getting the ram chips for the older/ 80's games. Any more info on the anypin NVRAM and where to get it? I'll google, but just in case...
i'm not sure of the advantage of that over installing the receeiver and using a $1.00 coin cell battery that usually lasts 10+ years. just like the new sterns. my track & field coin battery is original, 3.07 volts, and still doing it's job. from 1982. :P
energizer lithium AA. plug and play and relax.
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IKEA
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How the hell do you fit Hamster in there? ;-)
Let's not even mention the size of his pellets!
I assure you it's not easy, stuff is popping out all over the place! And he eats all the damn time too!
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Thanks for all the input on this, was a lot more informative than i expected it to be...on a simple battery thread! If you think your simple comment might not matter sometimes and may not bother to post, I'd just like to say I really did take everyone's recommendations and input very constructively and have considered all the options. I've of course known of the lithium axial batteries for years, since Atari Jim first started putting them on my games, but also good to discover about those memory chips for modern games Jon mentioned, Chris' recommendation of the lithium AA's (i never even saw those before!), and Hamster's comments about lithium vs, alkaline...all very helpful to consider.
So here's an update: last weekend I went thru all the games that I THOUGHT still used batteries, as it turns out my memory forgot that most of them had already been Atari Jim-ized over the past years (lithium axial batteries soldered on), and some i forgot I had Rottendogs and Ultimate MPU's even... very good to remember! :) So as it turns out, there's only 8 left that actually still have regular AA batteries in them, so for now temporarily I just switched them out to be on the safe side. All had the aforementioned Energizers, but haven't been replaced for at LEAST 2 years (all had date of 2016), my last records SAY it was 2009 but pretty sure I replaced them sometime since then, just have to check my computer notes. Anyway, the Energizers, all except one game, all still had 1.53-1.55vdc of juice left in them, I'm pretty sure when brand new fresh they tested at 1.59vdc iirc, so that means with over 2 1/2 years at least of use, they games have only used the miniscule amount of .04-.06vdc... so that's pretty interesting. Hence, the issue isn't how long they will last necessarily, but it's how long you trust them not to leak. Seeing as this whole episode came about by finding Energizers from the same batch had leaked in my other devices, I decided to put brand new fresh Rayovac's in there for now, until I can go through them and either put the memory chips in or lithium batteries. Keep in mind AA are rated at 1.5vdc, so even 2+ years old tested at 1.55vdc they are STILL technically testing as new, I just am nervous about leakage so replaced them. The Rayovacs new tested at 1.63vdc....as I guess probably the companies slightly overcharge them so even if they lose a little voltage sitting in the pack for a while they will still make their "Guaranteed fresh" date of 10 years or whatever.
So anyway, I'm still up in the air about the memory chips vs. lithium batteries. The memory chips would be nice to be done with it forever, but slightly pricey at $27-$30 each. Certainly either the lithium axial batteries or lithium AA's are much cheaper, have seen reviews of the AA's leaking also. Any recommendations for a decent lithium axial battery, or are they all basically the same? I've seen some dirt cheap, but not sure if there are quality concerns? I.e., here's Omni Cel for less than $3 each, Tadiron for a bit more... thoughts? What do you guys use when it comes to those?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12pcs-OmniCel-ER14250-3-6V-1-2AA-Lithium-Battery-w-Axial-Pins-FAST-USA-SHIP-/390655586017?pt=US_Single_Use_Batteries&hash=item5af4e32ee1 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/12pcs-OmniCel-ER14250-3-6V-1-2AA-Lithium-Battery-w-Axial-Pins-FAST-USA-SHIP-/390655586017?pt=US_Single_Use_Batteries&hash=item5af4e32ee1)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xeno-ER14255-1-2AA-AXIAL-3-6V-Lithium-Thionyl-Chloride-Battery-/390656145599?pt=US_Single_Use_Batteries&hash=item5af4ebb8bf (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xeno-ER14255-1-2AA-AXIAL-3-6V-Lithium-Thionyl-Chloride-Battery-/390656145599?pt=US_Single_Use_Batteries&hash=item5af4ebb8bf)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAFT-LS14250AX-1-2AA-Axial-3-6V-Lithium-Thionyl-Chloride-Battery-/271352084617?pt=US_Single_Use_Batteries&hash=item3f2dd83889 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAFT-LS14250AX-1-2AA-Axial-3-6V-Lithium-Thionyl-Chloride-Battery-/271352084617?pt=US_Single_Use_Batteries&hash=item3f2dd83889)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tadiran-TL-5955-P-2-3AA-Axial-3-6V-Lithium-Thionyl-Chloride-Battery-USA-SHIP-/231226483263?pt=US_Single_Use_Batteries&hash=item35d62c223f (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tadiran-TL-5955-P-2-3AA-Axial-3-6V-Lithium-Thionyl-Chloride-Battery-USA-SHIP-/231226483263?pt=US_Single_Use_Batteries&hash=item35d62c223f)
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I think leaving the batteries on your boards, regardless of battery type/brand, is like storing gasoline in your child's room. You're just waiting for something bad to happen.
Install a remote battery holder for less than $2, get those darn things away from your fragile and expensive boards and then stick whatever brand battery you want in them.
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Just to follow up on this, I made a final decision on course of action for my pinball machines.... this obviously was a no brainer to start with (thanks, Rich!):
I think leaving the batteries on your boards, regardless of battery type/brand, is like storing gasoline in your child's room. You're just waiting for something bad to happen.
Install a remote battery holder for less than $2, get those darn things away from your fragile and expensive boards and then stick whatever brand battery you want in them.
Nothing I haven't heard before, but with a bunch of different options now available, trying to figure out the easiest and best course of action takes some thought. So yeah, FIRST I decided to get the remote battery holders to get the batteries completely off the boards, and then will also get the lithium aa batteries as well in case anything leaks. This way it's covered. I got the sealed battery cases from Curly, btw.
NOW as a continued public service on this subject... here's some interesting results from what turned into a marathon battery investigation/ revelation. So, over the past few weeks, in my paranoia of battery leakage, I realized I actually had a shitload of items that had various sizes of batteries in them, not just the pinball machines. These included various musical devices, effects pedals, guitars, and my Jakks plug and play collection, remote controls, etc. I went through everything I could think of, and decided to remove ALL the batteries until needed. In all, it ended up being a whopping total of right around 200 batteries, all makes, and all sizes. Most brands ended up being Energizer, Duracell, Rayovac, Eveready, and Walgreens alkaline. Sizes were aa, aaa, C, and 9 volts.
So, first of all out of 50 9 volt batteries, 12 of those were Duracells. ALL F#$ing 12 of those leaked...BADLY. Actually a few exploded out the bottoms, others had severely bulging bottoms, others leaked. Some were well past the "Gauranteed fresh" date, but some of them had dates of 2014, 2015, and further. BEWARE F#$ng DURACELL!!!!! See the pics below.
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Of the remaining 38 9 volt batteries, about 6 were Energizers, 2 of which leaked (see pics). Of the various brands of the remaining 9 volts, it was very interesting to find that even generic and no name brand batteries did NOT leak, some being installed and forgotten about since 2003, and STILL even had a full charge! The most dependable and trouble free brand? Walgreens Super Alkaline. Zero leaks, almost all still had a full charge after probably 5 years.
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So, then I moved on to all the Jakks plug and Play arcade games. Keep in mind all these games had like 3-4 batteries in each of them, same as all the remotes and various other things, which is how it all eventually added up to 200 batteries. I know, I know....I should have been more diligent and not left battereis in all these things for so long, but with having so many toys you don' realize they've been in there so long, and time goes by. Anyway, as far as the Plug and Plays go, pretty much the same type of results. It got F#$#ing ridiculous it was ALMOST funny had I not been so pissed. If I turned a game's power switch ON and got a red light, I'd open up the battery compartment and it would usually have either Energizers or (mostly) Walgreens super alkaline, all with alomost full charge...no problems. If the game didn't power on, I'd open up the battery compartment and find F#$*ng Duracells had leaked all over and having to do surgery with vinegar and cue tips on dozens of items over the week. EVERY time I found Duracell's, they had exploded and/or leaked. Actually I take that back...I believe I found 6 Duracells that didn't leak...yet... out of about 50. See pics below, the last pic upper left shows crap Duracells that leaked, the right side in the plastic cases are various other brands that still have full charge and didn't leak.
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So, I went through everything I could think of that had batteries. I remembered the other night the exercise bike had batteries for the memory also, don't recall changing them for a long time. Guess what? I found 4 Duracell C batteries, all starting to leak, expiration 2014. Last night I noticed my battery powered travel alarm clock stopped working. Guess what? 1 Duracell C battery, leaked. MotherF#$#ers!
Again, I realize I was lax in changing batteries, but as Donnie said "It would be NICE if the batteries just died and didn't leak"...as most ALL of the other brands (generic and otherwise) did not even die, nor leak. So, Bottom line.... a huge cross section of 200 batteries, all brands and sizes, the BEST I found to be Walgreens Super Alkaline. It seems all the hype and marketing on others is just that.
DO NOT USE DURACELL!!!! EVER!!!!
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Great write up Batman! Last year my timer for the sprinkler system was going buggy. Sure enough, the batteries had leaked. It didn't even occur to me to check the batteries.
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that's some in-depth studies!
but funny you mentioned that. i just pulled a corrosion leaking 2016 date duracell out of a guitar hero guitar.
i haven't purchased duracell in 25 years, but forgot how bad they really are.
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I was truly in Durac- HELL. I was so pissed, fortunately with a LOT of work and time and cleaning I think I managed to salvage most everything (I think), except for the aformentioned Rockman headphone amp. :( It was pretty surprising and stunning to have such a large cross section of batteries, and to find Duracell consistently failing over and over. Keep in mind, ALL of these devices and battery brands were roughly the same age and kept in the same environment, it was nothing different I did with the devices that had Duracells in them. Still, a little pissed at myself for having even 1/4 of them using Duracells to begin with, probably the only thing we had on hand at the time. Never again, lesson re-learned.
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Great thread, looks like Duracells just fell off my list. Just changed everything a bit ago, next change it wiil be lithiums for me!
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i just pulled 2 year old energizer lithiums out: voltage readings - 1.60, 1.57, 1.58.
i purchased them on august 8th of 2012 for everything that took them.
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Just sell all those SS, DMD's, etc and buy EM's. WaLah battery problem solved.
Long live battery less EM's
Jeff
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I'd sell all these DMD's and SS games, but I hear Ebay and CL are a nightmare to try and sell on, and i don't know of any good sites where to try to sell the stuff. :P Yeah, EM's are definitely nice in that way. Actually, most of my games have already been dealt with, it's just those small handfull that were never converted from original.
i just pulled 2 year old energizer lithiums out: voltage readings - 1.60, 1.57, 1.58.
i purchased them on august 8th of 2012 for everything that took them.
Yeah? Lithiums seem to definitely be the way to go with devices that need them, although more expensive if they DO leak they hopefully don't destroy the device. I thought I was done, but last night I just found my old handheld cassette recorder I used in the 80's to bootleg concert recordings, and popped open the battery compartment. I got it open a few centimeters and already saw that fucking Duracell color, and then of course found the Duracell AA's had leaked (of course) all over it and it couldn't be saved. And yet...even with white crap all over the ends the one battery still showed a good charge. Like I said earlier in this thread, it's not about how long they will keep the charge, as even some of the 10-12 year old batteries still tested as new...and batteries well over 2 years in the pinball machines still had 1.55 dcv. The game is how long you trust that they're not ready to burst at any time, even thought they still LOOK good. I still have a few Duracells that test as new, free to anyone who wants them. Feel lucky, punk?
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I was truly in Durac- HELL. I was so pissed, fortunately with a LOT of work and time and cleaning I think I managed to salvage most everything (I think), except for the aformentioned Rockman headphone amp. :( It was pretty surprising and stunning to have such a large cross section of batteries, and to find Duracell consistently failing over and over. Keep in mind, ALL of these devices and battery brands were roughly the same age and kept in the same environment, it was nothing different I did with the devices that had Duracells in them. Still, a little pissed at myself for having even 1/4 of them using Duracells to begin with, probably the only thing we had on hand at the time. Never again, lesson re-learned.
OK, for a slight thread resurrection and update/ closure... So, I was so pissed about my aforementioned vintage Rockman headphone amp being destroyed, I decided to do the dance and contact Duracell (owned by Proctor and Gamble) and contacted them about the damage. They took my info, and said they'd send out a postage paid return label and envelope to send them the damaged product and batteries. The lady representative of course "informed me" I shouldn't have used batteries with an expired date on them (THANKS!), and I informed HER that they weren't expired when I put them IN, and they didn't actually expire until a month after I took them OUT after leaking all over and ruining the damn thing. Regardless, they're supposed to stand behind their product, no matter if they're expired or not. After this exchange I wasn't feeling overly confident they were going to investigate and find in my favor, so I took some pics of all the damage.. but the thing was already ruined so I figured I had nothing to lose by sending it to them. They said the pre-paid shipping label and return instructions materials should take about 2-3 weeks to get, then roughly 8-10 weeks after that to investigate and get a resolution. Wonderful. I got the return shipping labels after about a week or two...they sent a letter apologizing or whatever and return instructions, and they were so nice to send me a coupon for $1 off my next Duracell battery purchase. SERIOUSLY?
Sigh, so after taking some more pics for my records, I boxed up the headphone amp and batteries, and sent it off. As mentioned, the estimated wait time was like 8-10 weeks, this was in August. A few weeks ago I get a letter from them, which reads:
"Thank you for providing the requested materials regarding your Duracell claim.
We're very sorry you had this experience while using Duracell. Please be assured all Duracell products have been extensively evaluated to ensure they will not cause damage when used as directed. However, because we value your goodwill, I've requested a pre paid Visa debit card to help you offset your replacement costs. The card can be used any where Visa cards are accepted, and also to make online purchases. The pre paid visa debit card will arrive under separate cover within the next 2-8 weeks.
Once again, thank you for contacting us and giving us the opportunity to address the matter. We hope you'll continue to use Duracell again in the future. "
So... I get an apology, but then kinda say "Please be assured all Duracell products have been extensively evaluated to ensure they will not cause damage when used as directed. However, because we value your goodwill...which is kinda saying "...but we think you're wrong though, because you didn't use them as directed"...but then "because they value my goodwill..." they ruled in my favor (as required by law) and stepped up and sent a gift card for the value of the item. In the end, I'm actually satisfied with the outcome, if not a bit surprised they DID decide to reimburse me, but that's how it's SUPPOSED to work. Of course, the only slight bummer is that the vintage Rockman isn't made anymore, so the money is nice for a reimbursement, but I'm SOL a little on that, as I wasn't sure if THEY might actually go thru the hassle to search EBAY or music stores to find a comparable NOS replacement or something. I guess I'd rather have that option myself with the money they reimbursed ($150).
Bottom line, twice now in my life I've had musical equipment damaged and sent to Duracell for claims (1st time was a keyboard), and happy to say at least they stand behind what they sell...as long as you're willing to go thru all the red tape and claims process and say a prayer and wait a little while. Plus, I got a $1 off coupon on my next Duracell purchase!
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Jeff, this is good news. Good for you! More than I expected them to do.
You should forward the letter on what you wrote to get them to take action.
This might help educate some to the course of action they could or should take to get resolution from Duracell or any other company they need reimbursement from.
The Batman comes through again. :)
At least you didn't have to hurt anyone this time.
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Jeff, this is good news. Good for you! More than I expected them to do.
You should forward the letter on what you wrote to get them to take action.
This might help educate some to the course of action they could or should take to get resolution from Duracell or any other company they need reimbursement from.
The Batman comes through again. :)
At least you didn't have to hurt anyone this time.
I didn't have to write a letter, the customer service rep took notes upon the initial phone call, and entered everything under my case number. i just had to fill out the 2 page questionnaire form they sent for general info, i.e. type of batteries, did I install the batteries when brand new, name of damaged item, value, condition of item, and general comments area, where I just briefly reiterated what I told the rep on the phone, that I wasn't happy and would like the item repaired, replaced, or money reimbursed. Plus, sending in the crappy leaking batteries along with the totally wasted item with obvious alkaline damage and leakage all over the place... I was thorough and kept the exploded batteries, and stated my case firmly.
Also, I told them I'm the goddamned Batman and I think that's what did it.
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I would say to try the rechargeable Nickel Metal Hydride (nimh) double A batteries, good for over a year, 2-3,000 recharges, and they don't leak like alkalines.
http://www.batteryjunction.com/eneloop-bk-3mcca12sa-12aa.html (http://www.batteryjunction.com/eneloop-bk-3mcca12sa-12aa.html)
O
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IKEA, not joking.
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So after reading this I checked all batteries and found several Duracells leaking. No problem with any of the old oddballs, just Duracell. Probably go with the Energizer Ultimate Lithiums in the future. Thanks for the post Batman.
Bob
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Glad to help, thanks for the confirmation its not just me. I'm not crazy, I tell ya...I'm not crazy at all in the slightest crazy. Well maybe a little.
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You're from Cleveland, gotta be a little crazy. Hell, I'm from there too and I'm a bit Nutz.
Battery update.......the wife found the Energizer Ultimate Lithiums at Walgreens with their in store $3 off coupon for.....4 pack for $3.49, till Nov. 26.
Thought this was a very good price.
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You're from Cleveland, gotta be a little crazy. Hell, I'm from there too and I'm a bit Nutz.
Battery update.......the wife found the Energizer Ultimate Lithiums at Walgreens with their in store $3 off coupon for.....4 pack for $3.49, till Nov. 26.
Thought this was a very good price.
yep found them. go to walgreen and look for their paperless coupon. sign up and clip the coupon. you should be able to redeem the coupon when you check out by giving them your phone number or walgreens card.
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ok with all of this battery talk blah blah blah. has anyone changed their batteries in their pins and have not lost their high scores or setting? if so, how did you do it?
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Replace the batteries while machine is on.
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ok i was wondering if it was ok to do that while the machine was running. thanks for the info. btw that walgreen coupon is all of that and then some. i save 45 bucks on 6 - 4packs and only paid $23.
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Replace the batteries while machine is on.
John, what did I say?
Don't you doubt me bro...haha. :roll: :roll:
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i went to walgreens with coupon in hand, and got the advance lithiums.
$6.97 with coupon...so, your mileage may vary. that sucked, but still a good battery. :)
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Chris,
I found a lot of the Wal-Greens were out of the Ultimate Lithium 4 packs so I asked the manager to extend the $3 off coupon to the 4 packs of Energizer Advanced which were already sale priced at $6.49 and they honored the coupon for those bringing each pack total before tax to $3.49.
I was still also able to pick up a bunch of Ultimates but you're right the advanced lithiums are still a world better and longer lasting than just about anything else.
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walgreens runs good sales on energizer lithiums, around $6.50 for a pack of 4 when they go on sale:
(http://i5.walmartimages.com/dfw/dce07b8c-2b57/k2-_02b6d622-426d-49ef-a64a-44cc0a101013.v1.jpg)
http://www.villagebbs.com/forum/index.php/topic,15891.msg133675.html#msg133675 (http://www.villagebbs.com/forum/index.php/topic,15891.msg133675.html#msg133675)
i changed all my games to lithium in 2012 (after an 8 month old duracell leaked out on me). i'll pull a couple to take a voltage reading tonight.
sorry to bump this, but it's an awesome post.
I checked 2 games tonight. Game A has been on for a total of about 20 minutes in 6 months, and Game B is played every 3 or 4 days, and left on for hours.
both use a set of 3 lithium energizers, installed in 2012.
Game A - all 3 batteries sitting at 1.80 volts (very limited power-on time)
Game B - all 3 batteries sitting at 1.55 volts
when they are brand new, energizer advance lithiums meter out at 1.8 volts. no idea why the difference between the 2 games.
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Is game A Stern/Sega/DE and game B Williams/Bally? For some reason Williams later games pull more than the others.
I don't understand why everyone still uses batteries. If the ram chip is socketed, change it to Eram, if its soldered in, use memory caps replacing the batteries. Yes, the conversion costs more than a set of batteries, but in 3 years easily pays off if a set of batteries leak when are forgotten to be changed.
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for me, it's not cost or effort. I'm just a fan of keeping a game's board stock if feasible. and I hate duracells.
game A is a sega Frankenstein.
game B is a williams funhouse.
cool to know Williams can pull more juice, although not sure why that would happen. :)
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with all of this battery stuff going on here I decided to change out all of mine yesterday,,,,,wow its been awhile.... :roll: :roll: :roll:
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So after reading this I checked all batteries and found several Duracells leaking. No problem with any of the old oddballs, just Duracell. Probably go with the Energizer Ultimate Lithiums in the future. Thanks for the post Batman.
Bob
Since the thread was revived, I'll add that I had the same experience here. I went thru everything in the house I could think of, and a huge percentage of the Duracells were leaking. All of the energizers and even the off-brands were fine.
-E
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another 1. 6 batteries in light-up coasters, and this puppy just started corroding 1 of them. the rest of the batteries are all generic brand, no issue.
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Thanks to everyone for the continued posts on your own findings, and confirmation that I'm not always totally crazy! :)
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I'm going to get a free mouse/keyboard credit.
f#$@ you Duracell. 2019 dated battery, blew the hell up.
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2644429.jpg)
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I could almost swear that Duracell leaves the fastest of all the major brands. Of course the cheap, Chinese batteries are worse but you expect that.
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I've never had any batteries leak as bad as Duracells. After you file your claim, maybe I can borrow them and ask for a new MMR replacement.
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Yeah, FU Duracell indeed, they're definitely the worst offender when it comes to battery.leakage...never again!
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F U Duracell bump ;D
these were dated 2027. came out of 1 of my flashlights, i didn't put that crap in there. another victim of the Duracell brand, goodnight, flashlight :( . :P
(https://i.ibb.co/xGhqBRP/batt1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2Pq3Cfm)
(https://i.ibb.co/mBkXJxt/batt2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FW206PJ)
oh, and energizer lithium bump. i have 3 in one of my pinballs, they are almost a decade old now. ;D
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energizer lithium are worth the dough...
worst batteries ever are amazon branded... they are cheap so i bought some and they are cheap but last about 1/10th of any other battery.
Good news is they will never leak since they are dead way before that could even begin to happen. :P
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good point. like ray-o-vacs: always cheaper on the store floor, and i think they last about a 1/3 of the time an energizer or a non-blown up duracell can last.
Topic within a Topic: Oldest battery in a game you own?
i have the original coin cell in my track and field arcade ('83), and the original soldered battery in a Medusa ('81) pinball. both retain full charge. :)
at the shop yesterday, eric somehow pulled out eveready industrial batteries from a Maverick ('94)...i believe that's what that game shipped with...still held a charge.
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with all of this battery stuff going on here I decided to change out all of mine yesterday,,,,,wow its been awhile.... :roll: :roll: :roll:
Hi Pindan... we all miss you.
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It's ironically coincidental this thread was revived before I was able to get to it this month, as I guess I forgot to change the batteries in my pins since I last posted in this thread... guess what happened?
Fuck you Duracell, part 763
Sooooo.... Yeah, in the 10 games or so that I still had double A batteries, I hadn't changed them in several years ...or apparently 5 years. Oops. I know, my fault... I got busy, I forgot. Anyway, 7 of those games were Data East/ Sega/ Stern and they were fine... But two of them were 80s Bally's and of course the middle battery leaked In both of those. Fortunately one of those (that had the worst corrosion) was in a remote battery pack so I just switched the pack out, unfortunately one of them corrosion extended onto the circuit board a little bit, so I had to clean it up with vinegar and rinse it, good news is looks like it's saved and working fine... so I got lucky. All of these batteries were either Ray o vac (which I now prefer and most were fine) and a few Energizers (the ones that leaked in the Bally games). I've recently just been informed that the 80s Ballys originally came with rechargeable batteries and had a recharging circuit, so when putting traditional batteries in there that's why the middle one was corroding the most and leaking first all the time... good to know but I'm done with batteries fortunately...!
Episode IV: A New Hope
So, enough is enough. Fortunately modern technology has caught up with us, and since most of these 10 games I still have that used traditional batteries were Data East, I was able to simply replace the 1 ram chip in each game with the nvram battery replacement chips from Pinitech.com ... No more batteries, ever!
These chips are available for most games, fortunately since most of mine were Data East the RAM chips were already socketed, so I simply had to pop out one chip and put in the new nvram chip... And done, nice and easy. For games that don't have socketed ram chips (i.e. WPC), if you need to do that you have to cut the socket out and solder a socket onto the board and then install a chip... So that gets more involved and not as quick and easy. Fortunately I didn't have to deal with this. I did also get lucky and replaced the ram in Orbitor one since it was also socketed, an early Stern game. Apparently these will work for some video games that require batteries also.
When buying only single chips they're like $17 each plus shipping, but when buying 4 or more it just makes it like $12 a chip, so it's totally worth it. Check out the site and it has a list of all the different games and compatibility, as well as the ram location, as well as install difficulty for each pinball company. It was so easy even a tech dummy like me could do it. Highly recommended, no more batteries! Pinitech.com
In summary... Fuck you Duracell! And fuck you Ravens also!
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just leave the batteries out.. :D
need to coin it? open the coin door..
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just leave the batteries out.. :D
need to coin it? open the coin door..
I do that for a few of the older games, but I think most would agree for a $12 chip is totally worth it not to have to open the door to add credits every time you turn on the game, plus especially it also saves the high scores and other settings on modern games, I.e. tournament settings, number of balls, rewards settings, etc..
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Well...? Since there's been a lack of reaction on the nvram Chips comments, I'm wondering if anybody else has actually installed them, or taken advantage of the pinitech deals, or why or why not you wouldn't? You really should, especially if you still have batteries in your newer Stearns $5K -10K games. Thoughts?
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i use energizer lithiums. will use NVRAM once i need to, but so far, the bunny lithiums, at least for me, have been kicking azz for close to a decade. :)
F Duracell. it's like the Ravens of batteries. :P
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i used my own nvram modules :D or took the batteries out.
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F Duracell. it's like the Ravens of batteries. :P
We definitely agree on both of those!
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This epic thread now has over 8,000 views! I'm not sure where that falls in the hall of fame of threads on the village, but it seems like a lot. I hope it at least has helped people learn something.