gottlieb gprom checksum error

[busa32927]

hi all

helping a friend with his pin.  when it boots up it has an gprom checksum-AA3C.   Not sure what a gprom is much less where it is located.    can you guys give me some advice?

Thanks

[Brtlkat]

AA3C is the checksum for the revision 3 GPROM for Freddy. This is normal what is the machine doing, Stopping at the checksum?

[busa32927]

thanks for the reply.  yes it is a freddy.  not sure what would cause that.  i have never worked on a gottliev and have no clue on some of its circuitry.  there are some issues with the game but didnt know if those issues were related to the gprom so i wanted to see what the gprom error first

[busa32927]

AA3C is the checksum for the revision 3 GPROM for Freddy. This is normal what is the machine doing, Stopping at the checksum?

so are you saying that this is normal for booting up freddy and everything is ok board wise?

[Brtlkat]

This is the checksum for the game prom AA3C. This lets you know that the rom is checking out ok. Does it boot up fine after the checksum is checked?

[busa32927]

the game boots and plays.  but issues i have noticed so far is that the furnance door never goes up all the way, some solenoids arent firing (vuk) and not sure if the game is suppose to auto launch the ball.  just started evaluating issues last night.

[Brtlkat]

Sounds like the transistor may bad. Do they fire in test mode? Get the manual and see what transistor is used for those coils that are not working. Then you can test the transistor and go from there.

[Brtlkat]

This may help out http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_3

[Brtlkat]

 Testing Solenoid Driver 12N10L or IRL530 MosFETs.
 The MosFETs used for the Solenoid/Flashers, Lamp Matrix Return lines and Lamp Matrix Strobe lines on the Gottlieb System3 driver board can be tested with a Digital Multimeter (DMM). This is similar to testing TIP Darlington transistors used in other pinball machines. Please keep in mind the same testing principles apply. That is, using a DMM to test a MosFET is only about 95% accurate. Sometimes a MosFET can test as "good", yet really be bad.

If I have the driver board out of a game, it only takes a moment to test a MosFET with a DMM. If I get any suspect readings, I replace the part. It saves work down the road.

Here is the testing procedure for the 12N10L/IRL530 MosFETs used for Solenoid/Flashlamps and Lamp Matrix return lines (Q1-Q32 and Q45-Q52). These are also used on the Auxiliary Driver Board.


•Game off and preferably the driver board removed from the game. If board still in game, remove connectors P5 and P6.
•Set your DMM to "diode" test function.
•On the component side of the board, put the black DMM test lead on the metal case (or center leg) of the MosFET in question.
•Put the red DMM test lead on the lower leg (leg nearest to the P5/P6/P7 connectors).
•A reading of .4 to .6 should be seen.
•Typically a bad MosFET will show .2 to .3; if this is the case, replace the MosFET.
•Next put the red DMM test lead on the upper leg (leg away from the P5/P6/P7 connectors).
•A reading null reading should be seen.
•Typically a bad MosFET will show .2 to .3 volts. If this is the case, replace the MosFET.

[busa32927]

wow there is some serious gottlieb love on here.  i will probably try this stuff out this weekend.  i will keep ya posted.  i will check the solenoids first along with the switches and reflow some solder on there is needed.

thanks for the help

[k7]

the game boots and plays.  but issues i have noticed so far is that the furnance door never goes up all the way, some solenoids arent firing (vuk) and not sure if the game is suppose to auto launch the ball.  just started evaluating issues last night.

the boiler up/down mechanism is probably bent/tweeked. lift playfield, spin the mechanism, and bend it back so the door lifts up correctly. I've seen this exact issue on the only 2 Freddy's I've been in front of.

you can run the coil test for VUK, but I'm thinking you probably just need to gap that switch correctly.

I believe the autolaunch (and also a diverter) only occurs during multiball. again, check the shooter lane switch if yours isn't doing what you expect it to. I don't think it operates otherwise...I know I left my freddy on with a ball in the shooter lane, and it just sat there.

if the game boots, your boards are probably 100% fine.

once running, system3s seem to be bulletproof.

[busa32927]

well i fixed everything today.  wow.  the furnace door motor worked but it was not adjusted properly.  the up stroke never went up all the way. 

opto switchers for the furnace was triggered.  that was just so much dirt over them that when i wiped them clean they worked properly. the game would go into auto launch when you started a game.  all plays correct now.

there were some really bad connections to the solenoids.  1 is a temp fix until a new solenoid comes in.  the others were bad or weak solder jobs.

several switch issues.  interesting how gottlieb counts the balls in the game.  only put the number that is suppose to be in there.  friend had 1 too many balls.  the game would spit out 2 balls all the time and shut down when 1 drained.

setting the game to freeplay is done by setting the game into tournament mode and following the on screen instructions from there.

the menu system is far different from every other pin maker.  i wish there were some more diagnostics there like furnace door up and down. 

has fixing this game made me love or hate gottliebs more.  jury is still out on that one. 


thanks all for you help